The specific silence all
around, the prevailing coolness in the atmosphere, the milky white sheet of
moonlight spreadind all over the proudly ripened and pleasantly smelling
fields, memsmerise me and demand me to share the beuty of my village with
someone who can feel it and let it get down deep into one’sheart.
of the village
The Village is located on Phalia-Sial-Mor Road, 35 Km away from
Phalia nearly the same distance from Sial More ( Motorway Interchange ) at
the bank of the Chenab River and bears a very rich in culture, agriculture and
The village is 63 Km
south-west of M.B.Din, east of Sargodha bordering Sargodha, Hafizabd and Mandi
It lies in union
council Bherowal, Tehsil Phalia and District Mandi Bahauddin and in the area of
Qadir Abad Police Station.
villages, towns and geographical landmarks
Klan is situated 3km south west of Bherowal, the main nearby
town, west of Raan Klan
east-west of AurayKlan,
and north ofThakkar Miana. It islocated almost 3km north
of the RiverChenab (Ghagianwala). The nearby famous TownTakhat
Hazara is located a few km west from the village which is famous
for the love story of Heer-Ranjha
History of the village
The exact origin of the village is unknown but
the history can be traced 25 generation back at least, making it oldest among
all the neighbouring villages. Seven villages are said to have been
originated from Thakkar Klan. The names of the villages are, Auray, Sheray
wala, Walayat Wala, Moosa, Raan Klan, Waryam and fatoo-wala.
The old village was originally located at the place where now
stands the villlage Thakkar Miana. It was later eliminated by a severe PLAGUE (
Taa’un ) and levelled by An earthquake ultimately.
Later the foundation of the new village was laid at the current
location at some elevated position from ground level to keep it safe from the
flooding in nearby Chenab river.
Founder of the village
The history of the founder of the village is completely
recorded. The founder of the village was named ‘’THAKKAR Ranjha’’
S/O Pithar, S/O Daasu who was
among the predecessors of Sultan Sanda who migrated from the
sacredland of Arabia to Multan for preaching Islam.
Thakkar then migrated to Sindh and died in anonymity. He
had three sons named Azam, Haam and Shaam among them the later two died
issueless (Be-aulaad) and the current population of Ranjhas, the native cast,
are the descendents of Azam.
§ Parts (Mohallas) and boundaries in the village
The village has few small scattered pockets of populations in
areas like the Basti of Pathans (Afghanis) atthe east side of the village
and ‘’Basti Pathan’’ at east-west of the village along the road
Aimaan khooh has also grown to become a small village
located at southern end of the village along the road side. ‘’Dera Atta
Mohammad’’ at the east end of the village is also growing in number of
‘’Taahli Aala Khooh’’ is also
getting the shape of a small village. It is situated at the west south of the
village near the graveyard.
The main street of the village separates it into two parts,
politically called the eastern and western Wards. The eastern part is newly
built and the western part contains the oldest village situated at an
The eastern part is located at low elevation and has been facing
Sewage and drainage problems which have been resolved now.
Total Land of the village.
The total land of the village is 3200 Acres
Khoohs and land distribution
( Wells )once the source of watering fields have although been replaced
completely but their names are still used to refer to landmarks and one cannot
understand the position of any place without knowing their names. The
population in the past had also been centered around these Wells and some
places still growing in size are getting the shapes of small villages.
names and positions of the KHOOHs are as follows
wala Khooh, Kohlayan Wala khooh, Taahli Aala Khooh, and Nawan
Khooh (2no) are situated at the west side of the village. While Andarla
khooh was situated near the Jamia Mosque. Buryaana,
and Bulhyaana khooh is situated near the road on
eastern side of the village the former at the eastern side is
situated near the Basti Pathana at Dera Ghulam Ali Ranjha.Miana khooh at
the southern side of the village is included in the village now and is called
Miana Dera.Meeray Wala has been at the west Southern side of the
village near the Graveyard and the Aemaan Khooh( now a small
village) is situated at the southern side at the road
near the Thakkar Miana
Baloo-ana and Budha khooh were
present between road and Band (The flood barrier) at the southern side of the
Har’raan Wala and Chhatay wala are
situated at Dera of Anar Sheray Da and dera of Master Mohammad Haneef
respectively.( pic on right).
Niamo-wala Khooh was present till a few
years back at the North side of the Village at dera Ghulam Nabi Ranjha.(Upper
The wells ( Khoohs )
of the Bela (the area along river belt) were Maachhian wala Khooh, Raajay
ka Khooh, Taajay ka khooh and Budhay ka Khooh along
the river side.
These 23 Khoohs in the
past were a great indication of the Agricultural development of the village.
Even a Small battle was also been fought with the village of Kot Hast Khan and
Raan that invaded Thakkar to Occupy the village for its Khoohs
(Persian wells) but Sabaig and Gul Jhanda, the brave elders of the village
fought valiently against them and defeated them and the conspiracy of occupying
the village was foiled.
and Shrines (Mazars) in the village
village is echoed with the sound of Allah o Akbar from the five village mosques
five times a day. Among the five mosques of the village, three are Jamia
mosques. One mosque named Rehmania mosque is situated in the middle of the
village and is held by the Deobandi sect of the village. The main Sunni
Jamia Mosque is at the extreme west of the village at most elevated
place of the village and its grandiose high minarets add to the dignity of the
All the surrounding
small deras (Small crusts of populations in the suburbs) also
have their separate mosques.
§ The village contains only one dilapidated historical building
present since partition. It is about to collapse. The Dharmsaal (worshiping
place of Hindus) was the only historical building that was demolished in 1998.
§ Two mazaars named Jhaaran-wala and one more mazaar at the bus stop exist
in the village.
Population (inhabitants) of the village
The population of the
village is approximately 5500 or more. The total registered voters according to
the current Voter lists are about 2000 with about equal male to female ratio.
§ Major Casts of the Village
Ranjha is the native and major cast of the village as is clear
from history. The others migrated to the village later and are named according
to their original places. They are;
2. Lak (
on eastern side )
( western part )
( A few families )
(A few families)
8. Garhaanay (
( Who migrated from India to Pakistan )
10. Muslim Sheikh
12. Meerasi ( Qureshi )
of the Village:
§ The village has deep
rooted traditions and a typical village culture. The common tradition of the
village is the division of labour. The Zameendars as
usual are dominant over the workers but not as much as in the ‘’Sindi
culture’’. A division of labour is very clearly visible among all the castes of
the village and their co-operation with each other seem webbed and tangled and
cannot be separated.
work in accordance with each other and an intricate but well defined social
system is developed. The various casts have shared their work for each
other. The system is called SAIP system which can be defined as a return of services in
response for the services one renders. The workers are found to have SAIP with zameendars and
perform their socially assigned services in return of grain and many other
benefits. The Nais in response are responsible for services as
a barber and cooking at the marriage and other occasions. Kumehars provide
services like digging grave at funeral occasions and also carry grains to homes
and their milling back, and bringing soil for the Layering of the roofs with
soil. Mochi (cobblers) are confined to stitching shoes and
their repairing. They also help kumehars in digging graves.
Tailis have the responsibility of grinding seeds for oil extraction and
processing of cotton. Musalli (Muslim Sheikhs) mix soil with water
for roof layering and help keep the fire burning for Gurr (Kind of sugar)
formation from sugar cane. Tirkhan (Carpenter) renders services for
woodwork.Lohaar has the saip to prepare Sickles, axes and sharpening of tools along with sawing the wood for burning at
marriage and death ceremonies. Maachhis at the end make breads
on special occasions and everyday life.They cook chappatis for the villagers at
Tanoor (hearth). They were also responsible for carrying the DOLLY, the small
wooden cabin of the Bride. Meerasis have the duty of remebring
the Hierarchy (Shajra-e-Nasb) and tying up new bonds of marriage among
families. They also sing at ceremonies like birth of a young one and at other
occasions of happiness. Nothing except eatables need to be purchased by the
workers, generally called Kammi, and they all are provided with
fodder and wood from the Zameendars. At the cutting of the crop,
they are provided with wheat and rice specified.
§ This system is
prevailing since centuries but seems to be unappealing by the growing youth and
they want to earn their livelihood free of the effects of Zameendars.
§ This system no doubt is
against their basic independence and human rights, and does not allow common
villagers to provide a decent education to their children. Resultantly they
remain illiterate generation after generation and hence remain ignorant and ill
developed while the children of higher families get educated cashing in on the
handwork of the commoners. This system creates great social inequality and
injustice so is vanishing for gradually.
Thakkar Klan as usual
had a well developed Jirgah System. Most of the local issues are solved through
the Jirgah System also Called Pareihon in local language. Very rarely the
matter is brought to the police for dispute settlement. The most
trusted personlaity in this regard has been Ghulam Nabi S/O Rahmaan(May his
soul rest in heaven). Now the system seems to be politicised but still it works
village contains certain traditions since centuries and some of them seem to
diminish by the evolution of new era. A few among these are
The people of the
village help each other in the reaping of crops and work as a team. Same is the
case in tilling and ploughing.
2. Chikri Core (the layering
of mud at the
newly built house)
It has also been an
ancient custom to help the relatives in building houses and all the family
people get together to help and wish the special occasion. This tradition is on
the decline now.
important clans of the village
The village land is divided into
four Pattis (Pl; Pattian). They are as follows
Makhni kay, Khanoo k,
Khushi kay, Karmoo kay, Naajay kay and Saee Rajay kay belong to this Patti
Peeray kay, Bahadur
kay, Laalay kay and Shahu kay are Junaanay
Luthoo kay, Daadu kay,
Kaashim kay,Guil kay, Sabaig kay, Mirjay kay Maanay kay and shahu kay belong to
Kheeway kay, Jaloo
kay, Ahmay kay, Naajay kay, Lilyaanay and Lamyaanay are from Bulyaani Patti.
§ Source of income of the village
The main source of income of the people is
agriculture for Zameendar Baradri (Clan). Except the agriculture, three bricks
companies provide a major source of livelihood to
the labour and gives employment to about 300 or more poor people. The young
working generation of the village earns its livelihood from Lahore (Stitching
Factories) and Islamabad (Ceiling and marble works). The poultry farms and the
fish farms are among the growing industries in the village.
The educated people
mostly are job holders and the most among them are teachers. A great number of
the people are tailors and rest earn their livelihood through daily wages.
Many a people have
settled abroad for their livelihood. Most of them are in Saudi Arabia while new
trend is developing for European countries.
Some people abroad are
1. Liaqat Ali Ranjha ( France)
2. Safdar Iqbal Ranjha(France)
3. M Hanif
4. Safdar Iqbal Rabanni ( Saudi Arabia)
5. M Iqbal Tabassam (UAE)
6. Mukhtar Ahmad Darzi
Mohammad Hanif Ranjha
Saif-Ullah ( Head Master Primary School Thakkar klan )
Zafar Tarar ( D.T.E. Bherowal)
10. Master Mohammad Bakhsh
S/O Salehon Mohammad(The Greatest Teacher)
11. Master Anwar
12. Master Mohammad Khan
13. Master Nazir Ahmed S/O Sher Mohammad
14. Master Mohammad Arif
15. Master Manzoor Ahmed
16. Master Mohammad Ashraf
S/O Saee Mohammad
17. Master Nazir Ahmed S/O
18. Master Mohammad Ashraf (
Primary School Basti Makhdoom)
§ People in Civil Services
1. Mohammad Ali Ranjha (Instructor
Civil, Govt College of Technology Rasul)
2. Sultan Ali Ranjha ( Draughtsman, Irrigation
Deptt Lahore )
3. Mohammad Khan Ranjha ( SDO
Irrigation, Sheikhupura )
4. Zafar Iqbal Tarar, (
District teacher’s Educator Bherowal )
5. Mohammad Bashir ( Line
Superintendent Wapda, Bhabra )
6. Riaz Ahmed Ranjha S/O Khawaja ( Punjab Police)
7. Shahbaz Ahmed Ranjha S/O Fareed Ahmad ( Punjab Police)
8. Asif Ahmed Ranjha S/O Manzoor Ahmed (Punjab Police)
9. Tanveer Ahmed Ranjha S/O Manik (Punjab Police)
Sajid (Pak Army)
Mukhtar Ahmad Ranjha (Advocate High Court)
2. Zafar Iqbal Ranjha (LLM, UK)
Foreign Qualified Personnel
Iqbal Ranjha (LLM, Bungy University UK)
Iqbal Ranjha ( California, USA )
social personalities of the present are
1. Nazir Ahmad Ranjha (Ex Naib Nazim Union Council
Ansar Abbas Ranjha (Chairman Market Committee M.B.Din &
of the village)
social personalities of the past were
Nabi Ranjha S/O Rahmaan ( The old representative of the village )
Bakhsh S/O Naaja
Mohammad S/O Rahmaan
Qualified Personalities of the Village
Mohammad Iqbal ( MSc Botany ) Formanite
Sher Ranjha ( Chartered Accountant )
Iqbal Ranjha ( LLM, Bungy University, UK )
Iqbal Tarar ( M.A Islamiat )
Mohammad Bakhsh ( M.A, B.Ed )
Ali Ranjha ( Draughtsman Irrigation Deptt Lahore )
Ahmad Qureshi ( B.Com )
Nawaz Ranjha ( Civil Engineer )
Schools And Education
in the Village
§ There are Sseparate primary schools for boys and girls in
the village, along with three Evening Literacy Schools run by the local
educated females with the special aid of the Punjab Government.
§ Two Private primary Schools, Pilot Public School and one other
branch, not established yet, are also serving the Village.
§ The students go to the nearby town Bherowal for High School, where
one Govt and three Private High Schools are present. No Girls High School is present in the locality.
§ The village womens are also doing justice with studies and are
getting higher education. One student is
getting an M.B.A degree while one more student is doing MBBS and still one in
B.Com. The village females walk to Bherowal for high School education every
Health Facilities in the
facilities of the village are provided by the only One Basic Health unit with
only one qualified Dispenser. No qualified doctor is yet available in the
people visit Bhekho More RHC, 25 km away for better health facilities. Only one
surgeon visits the nearby village Bherowal on Sunday.
case of Emergency people visit Sial More mostly, and in chronic illnesses, Dr
Nazir Ahmed Shah Puria is considered an authority.
Shops in the Village
Shops, Shah Muhammad Kirayana and General Store is
famous most because of its Versatility. It does provide all the commodities ofeveryday
use right from medicine to Hosiery, shoes to fruits, beverages and tools, iron
goods and the books, Seeds and garments, and many more combinations. It caters
almost every thing to the village people they generally need. Other famous
shops are Haneefu Khojay di Hatti andKamyaanyan di Hatti. Aapan
Shanaz di Hatti is also earning fame these days.
are a few video Shops, one cloth shop and the only Engineering
Workshop (in the picture right) run by self made person Ghulam
Ali Lohaar in the village.
Media and Communication:
Media has very little to do with the village. Only one copy
of a national daily is delivered to the village. There are no
net cafes and the only local website is this one. Most of the people use Radio
receivers to get the latest information from VOA News or BBC. This has become a
part of the village culture. No Cable network is present in the village
and only a fraction of the villagers has TV sets in their homes.
All major Mobile Phone companies except Zong provide cellular
Service in the area and mobile phones have become, as usual, the hub of
discussions among the youth.
The village possesses a rich culture and history importance as
being once the largest village of the surrounding area unto Takhat Hazara. And
gave rise to seven surrounding villages named above in the introduction area.
Main Hotels and
The village has no hotel and restaurant but at bus stop, the
only Dhaaba of the village is run by Chacha Mutalli Kumehar
where tea, sweets and beverages are served and free movies are shown.
Free time & Hobby
young and senile have different hobbies. The elders gather
at more common places like at the Mochi or Nai’s place where
they sit leisurely around the Huqa and share the stroies of the past. They
narrate exaggerated stories of the legendary heroes of the past, half
fictitious and half
They often indulge in
nostalgic comparison of the golden years of the past with the present chaos.
The pastimes of the
youth are different. The traditions are changing rapidly among the youth. Dish
and Indian culture is captivating the youth. But thanks to Inflation, Mehngai
that most of the youth are earning fame in earning livelihood at cities.
· Volley Ball (The recent
· Cricket (common in the growing generation)
· Paansa Baazi (Once common in old)
· Jalsa (resembling Kabaddi has once been the most
popular among the elders)
· Kabaddi (Least common now)
· Kabootar Baazi
Famous Detective of the Village
Saee Mohammad Maachhi
is the well known detective of the village. He has got the good ability of
investigating foot prints of thiefs. No one in the area is as talented as
Agriculture (3200 Acres)
The village is
basically an Agricultural mine and agriculture is the pride of the people.
About 99 % of the earning of the village comes from agriculture and the village
is provided with canal water channels as well as abundant tube wells installed
every where and in summer season all the village surroundings are reverberated
with the sound of the Peter
development can be guessed by the fact that you cannot find even a two acre
Play ground around the village upto the river bank. The people use Tractor
Machines and advanced machinery for the agriculture. The Peter engines are
getting replaced by Electric motors with the support of the Punjab Govt but
Electricity crisis has reversed the process now.
The water is
plentifully available and underground water can be pumped out from a 50 feet
deep tube well.
As the village is
situated near the Chenab River, so flooding does play an important role in its
culture and history alongwith productivity. About all the families have
got their lands within flood barrier( Band) and the crops and the lands are
affected by the flood. The water returns in a few days but leaves many stories
behind for years.
Major Crops of the Village
The major crops of the village in the order of
The crops least
cultivated in present and abundant in the past were
means of transport are cycles, motorcycles and a few motor cars. Motor Cycles
are getting abundant day by day and seem to be replaced by the motor bikes.
Though people are rich but there doesnt seem to be a growing trend for buying
Other least common
means of transportation include tractors and rarely donkeys.
Saying about village
There is a well known
saying about the village; “ Jehrian Thakkar maojan nain Oh Waryaam
naeen’’ (Tthe leisures of Thakkar are not available at Waryaam)
village earned a good fame and repute for saving all the Hindus, and handing
them over to the Army for migration to India. Not even a single person was
killed. Manak Bosaal, who had been involved in the massive killing of the
hindus at varioussurrounding villages just for the sake of money and jewels,
also invaded the village but people of the village saved hindus in exchange for
the money and returned them safely to their homes.
The oldest man in the village
Nazir Patvari is the
noble oldest man in the village who is above 100 yrs but still healthy by the
grace of Allah.
The Pride of the village
Mian Shafi Mohammad (Late) Soobedaar Pak Army)
Maachhi S/O Khawaja Maachhi
The oldest tree of the village
Banyan tree(Borh) in Daara, (the common place of the village for social
gatherings, like marriages and deaths) is the oldest tree of the village. The
tree was planted by the grand father of Mohammad Ameer Qureshi about some 400
years back. This tree, who is the only oldest living creature of the villgae
and who rendered its cool shadows to the people for centuries and provided its
motherly twigs as cradel to many generations for playing, is losing life
due to some virulent disease. Its fatherly cool shadows dont seem to nurture
the coming generations and it will be dried up soon but we cannot do any thing
to save this old beneficiery of the village.
The people are closer
to the religion sectarian in character. The main sect of the village is Sunni,
next are Wahabis and a few Shia families. All the sects are independent in
performing their religious ceremonies. Although some times a tense situation
may be seen but never so much as to create a new Fasaad(conflict) among the
sects. Most of the people keep fast and dont seem to compromise over it.
Most of the marriages
have been taking place within families and within the village. So this custom
to a great extent enriched relations and strengthened bonds between families in
the villgae. Now the trend of marriages outside the village is there but
outside the familily still doesnt exist.
Nature of People of the
people of the village are hospitable, simple, mostly uneducated or with little
education but all of them are inclined to get their children well educated.
Although the people are rich but no trend of showing wealth and power. Their is
no enmity among the people and Alhamdolillah no serious comabt has ever taken
place between two families. People are free to move any time and no one seems
to interfere into the other’s affairs.
The people lead a
simple life and dont have too much luxuries. Local customs are usually
followed. People lead a balanced and routine life and help each other in their
problems. The dreesses common among the elders are Dhoti and Kurta while the
young generation prefers shalwar and qamees. The youth doesnt feel influenced
by western attire(dresses) and people usually dont like. Most of the young
females wear veil over shalwar Qamees when they come out of their homes.
Special Blessings of Allah
Cold water, prospering
people, and peace are the special blessings of Allah for the village. May Allah
keep his blessings on our village.
Future Pillars of the Village
Many a student is
getting education and would support the future of Pakistan. Their names are as
Imtiaz S/O Mohammad
Imtiaz BScElectronics UET(LHR)
Imtiaz S/O Mohammad
Ranjha S/O Muhammad
Ilyas S/O Shafi
Ranjha S/O Mohammad
6. Naveed Iqbal
Ranjha S/O Ahmad
7. Ahsan Ullaha
Ranjha S/O Muhammad
8. Zafar Iqbal
Ranjha S/O Shah
9. Ijaz Ahmed
Ranjha S/O Mohammad
10. Taimoor Iqbal
Ranjha S/O Mohammad
Walayat Civil Engineering
11. Riaz Ahmed
Lohar S/O Muhammad
Lohar Civil Surveyor
12. Tariq Ahmed
Mochi S/O Nazir
Shahzad S/O Mukhtar
Ahmed F.A, Q.S, Auto CAD
Ahmed S/O Ghulam
Sajid S/O Ghulam
Usman S/O Manzoor
17. Mohammad Irfan
Tarar S/O Mohammad
18. Shahbaz Ahmed
Garhana S/O Fateh
19. Zaheer Hayaat
Ranjha S/O Mohammad
Murtaza S/O M.Ali
Iqbal S/O Saif
ullah Ranjha B.Com
50 meters west of the village lies a place called the SILENT CITY, a famous but
ignored city. A place for all to return one after one. The city contains about
hundreds of Graves housing in it the pioneers and historians of the village and
the place we all have to move in ultimately.
The graveyard covers a
vast area of about two acres while one acre more is disputed. The personalities
who figured out the map of the villlage and those who nourished and nurtured
its inhabitants lie there. May there souls rest in heaven!!!
The janaz-e-gah (the
place for prayer in graveyard) has been renovated by the mutual efforts and
contribution of the people last year.
Local Telephone directory
No local directory is
available but for any information regarding any person or custom of the village
or any other detail, regarding village, a hotline named Chacha Shah Muhammad is
available. You can contact this person any time at phone number,
+92-345-5860586. The ptcl
number for the village is +92-546-540127.
The problems of the village
problems of the village include
o The incresing rate of Addiction
o The little space available for dumping sewage
o Growing sectarianism
Ghulam Ali Ranjha( Geography, landmarks, khoohs and clans)
Master Zafar Iqbal Tarar( Educated people, people in civil
Fahad Iqbal Ranjha ( The youth of the village, and education)
Mohammad Ameer Qureshi( History, the oldest tree, Clans,
Division of labour etc)
Special thanks to Prof Sameer Ahmed(GC Lahore) and Prof Azhar
Jaffari(GC Kamonke) for proof reading of the script.
Photography and editing by Rafaqat Ali Ranjha
criticism, suggestion or acquisition of more information dont hesitate to
contact me email@example.com or at firstname.lastname@example.org You can also call me at 03004947086 any time.
It has been a custom
in the village to call people with their castes or with thier fathers names or
both but never alone. So describing castes with names has been entirly for
identification, with no aim to give projection to any specific caste.